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Paradise on Earth: The Ultimate Guide to the San Blas Islands
Panama, located between the Pacific and the Caribbean, is the land bridge connecting Central and South America. Panama’s beautiful coastlines and archipelagos attract many tourists, but those seeking a more secluded experience will find what they want on the San Blas Islands.
The Caribbean islands are relatively unknown to most, but they deserve to be better known. A group of picturesque islands inhabited only by the indigenous Guna tribe, they offer a magical experience.
The San Blas islands are home to pristine landscapes, diverse ecosystems, and Guna communities. They host visitors keen to get a taste of island life without the bells and whistles associated with luxury resorts. Accommodation here is mostly backpacker-style with shared cabins and bathrooms – with a few exceptions.
The islands attract people from all over the world – but it’s not mass tourism. It is still pretty and quiet. I feel it is mostly known in the backpacker world, but it really is a destination worth exploring for all ages and walks of life.
Where are the San Blas Islands?
The San Blas Islands are a group of islands off the Caribbean coast of eastern Panama. 365 pieces of paradise are scattered across the Caribbean. More than 300 of them are uninhabited. All are coated in coconut palms, and most are too small for Google Maps to bother with.
The name is really Guna Yala (“Guna territory”), after a 2011 name change, but since most people still call it San Blas, I will use that name for now.
One of the 365 amazingly beautiful San Blas Islands
MAP
OF THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS IN PANAMA
How do I get to the San Blas Islands?
There are three ways to get to the islands:
– By flight
Flights to the San Blas Islands are the most comfortable way to get there. All flights leave early in the morning from Panama City’s domestic airport, Marcos Gelabert. You must stay overnight in Panama City beforehand. Currently, the only flights to the islands are private flights to El Porvenir. We can also quote helicopter transfers or day/overnight tours. Just ask.
– By 4×4 jeep transfer
The road into San Blas (Guna Yala) has improved significantly and is now accessible year-round. Only 4×4 or 4×2 vehicles are allowed because of some steep hills. A windy, twisty road leads from the Panamerican highway through beautiful jungle to the little “port” of Carti.
An entry fee into the Guna territory is charged when entering, currently $20 per person. You will have to pay a $2 per person fee for leaving from Carti port. It will take about 2.5-3 hours to drive non-stop from Panama City to the port in Carti, then another 30-45 minute boat ride to get to “your” San Blas island.
Please note: As you are very close to the Colombian border, there is a passport check with border patrol. Make sure to carry your original passports with you and in your hand luggage.
– By sailing boat
Sometimes you can find a boat that takes you from the Linton Bay Marina near Colón or from Portobelo to the San Blas Islands.
A more common option is to fly to Corazón de Jesús in the San Blas Islands, where you board your sailing boat to explore the San Blas Islands.
You have different options to sail the San Blas Islands:
1. You can charter a cabin and share the catamaran with a maximum of 4 other people.
2. Or you can charter the whole sailboat, including the captain. We offer different options, from monohull to luxury catamaran. Depending on the number of people and your budget.
This is the perfect way to spend any vacation, whether it’s a family vacation, a romantic getaway, or a honeymoon! Enjoy the turquoise waters and the fine white-sanded beaches, explore the amazing underwater world, and relax in the hammock with a fresh coconut in your hand – you will feel like Robinson Crusoe! Every day is a new adventure.
Afraid of getting seasick? The sea at the San Blas Islands is very calm almost year-round. The windiest months are usually January to March.
Insider Tip:
Check out our Sailing the San Blas Islands tour and relax on the most spectacular Caribbean beaches. Exclusive, unique, and fun for the whole family. Captain & all meals & drinks on board included. Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience!!!
Who inhabits the San Blas Islands?
The Guna, an indigenous tribe from Panama, run the islands and have fiercely protected the land, their culture, and their independence. That means no hotels, no chain restaurants, no foreign-owned anything. The best way to find a cell phone signal is by hunting for it on a dinghy. This is one reason the San Blas Islands are not as well known as The Bahamas or French Polynesia.
The Guna tribe is a small community of about 300,000. Around 50,000 live on the 49 major islands of San Blas. The Guna people live on the islands like they did hundreds of years ago: fishing with a line, climbing trees, and harvesting coconuts with their machetes.
Tourists are an important part of how the Guna make a living but are only allowed on a few islands where the Guna provide food and lodging.
The tribe has self-governing authority over the islands and a part of the mainland (their “comarca”). The Guna are quite remarkable. They are a matriarchal society, meaning women own all property. They are kind and happy people, but please be polite and ask their permission before taking pictures of them in their beautiful, colorful outfits, called Molas. In the Guna language, this means shirt or clothing. Molas make a unique and wonderful souvenir.
Spending time in the San Blas islands exposes you to a completely different side of Panama. When you get to know the hosts and their customs, keep an open mind and remain respectful of your surroundings. Your stay in this part of the country will be an experience you’ll never forget.
TropiQ Trips owner Anja, me, with local Guna women on the San Blas Islands (I am 5’6″) in 2012
Can I go island hopping on the San Blas Islands?
Yes, if you’re on day trips and hire a boat and a captain.
If you want to stay overnight on several islands, it’s harder to arrange. Most boat transfers are from the port in Carti to the prebooked island lodge. You can explore some nearby islands on day trips from your lodge.
The best way to see several islands and reach beautiful places like Cayos Holandeses, the Dutch Cays, is to sail the San Blas islands, as mentioned above. These islands are further away and harder to reach.
Isla Aguja (translates to needle island, or Icodub in Guna language) – one of the islands close to Carti
Can I stay on the San Blas Islands? Are there San Blas Island hotels?
Tourists are only allowed on a few San Blas islands, and on these islands, the Guna provide food and lodging year-round. Accommodation consists mainly of backpacker lodges, reachable by jeep and boat via Carti port.
Our Panama Family Adventure tour includes a stay in a basic San Blas island lodge reachable by jeep and boat.
Would you like a more luxurious stay? Ask us about a sailing tour through the San Blas Islands!
Typical huts for tourists on the San Blas Islands
What should I bring to the San Blas Islands?
What you should bring depends on whether you’re planning a day trip (not recommended, in my opinion, unless you literally only have one day) or staying on the islands for a couple of nights (yes!!!).
Do your research beforehand to make sure you have all the essentials. A day of exploring only requires the basics: sunscreen, snacks, a big bottle of water, and adequate beachwear.
For an extended trip, however, you’ll have to factor in the realities of island living. Although the San Blas Islands, also known as the Guna Yala comarca (an independent territory), are not far from modern Panama City, you will feel like you have traveled in time to a whole different place.
The San Blas Islands are very remote. There are no ATMs, so bring enough cash, preferably in small notes. Notes larger than US$ 20 aren’t even accepted.
There are no big supermarkets, so it’s best to bring everything you need. While many islands have a kiosk dedicated to selling souvenirs, soft drinks, and alcohol, we highly recommend bringing your own supply of drinkable water. Most arranged transport from Panama City includes a stop at a supermarket, so stock up on a couple of 5L bottles and use them to refill smaller ones.
Suggested packing list
Other than food, water, snacks for in-between meals, and cash, here are some other items you’ll want to bring to San Blas. Keep in mind you’ll basically live in your swimsuit:
- a sarong for the beach
- a towel for showers (unless you are staying in the Yandup Island Lodge)
- maybe a light sheet (sometimes there’s a breeze and it can get a bit cooler at night, but you will probably be fine without)
- your own snorkeling equipment
- mosquito spray – there really are hardly any mosquitoes but more sand flies (especially at the port in Carti)
- flip flops
- light short and long-sleeve cotton clothing
- hat
- baby wipes or hand sanitizer
- a good book or fully charged Kindle
- any medication you need
- a camera or GoPro
- a wet bag to save your electronics & valuables (alternatively a plastic bag) from the elements
Leave all your big luggage and suitcases in Panama City. Hotels will keep it for you free of charge. Neither the boats nor the jeeps have space for big luggage. And as you can see above, you really don’t need much on the islands. A large backpack will be perfect.
Guna community in the San Blas Islands
What else should I know about visiting the San Blas Islands?
Spending time in the San Blas Islands exposes you to a completely different side of Panama. When you get to know the hosts and their customs, keep an open mind and remain respectful of your surroundings. Your stay in this part of the country will be an experience you’ll never forget.
Also, life on the islands means that staying connected to the outside world may not be possible. Mobile network signals are often weak. Going off the grid may feel daunting for some of you, but take it as a chance to unplug. Just make sure to let loved ones know you’ll be hard to reach for a few days to avoid unnecessary worry. And enjoy this breathtakingly beautiful piece of land.
Me, Anja Phillips, on the San Blas Islands in the summer of 2017
*****
Conclusion:
The San Blas Islands are truly an amazing place to visit! The small islands, with their unspoiled beauty, turquoise water, white-sand beaches, and swaying palm trees, are absolutely stunning. But they are not well developed. Accommodations are very rustic.
If beautiful, peaceful destinations away from the crowds are for you and you don’t mind basic accommodation… go! If you are a luxury traveler: avoid!
My personal opinion: I have been to countless countries, all continents (including Antarctica), and many of the most beautiful places in the world – and the San Blas Islands are still my favorite place to visit. I can’t wait to go back there and show them to my sons! I know they will love them just as much as I do.
Visiting the San Blas Islands really is an adventure that you won’t want to miss.
Are you ready to experience your own San Blas Islands adventure? Contact us today for your personal island experience! We can’t wait to hear from you. Contact us for a free quote!
Have you been to the San Blas Islands? What did you think?
Let us know in the comments.
Check out these tours that include a stay on the San Blas Islands:
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